Traditional Fashion Weeks have lost their sparkle sometime before Suzy Menkes infamous article exposing the street style frenzi. It didn’t take long before the fashion crowd found a new cool event to hangout. First, it was the art fairs – preferred by the low key ‘fashionistas’ but, for the last couple of seasons, all eyes are on menswear weeks.
Yes, the duck has finally turned into a swan! A few reasons resulted into the rise of menswear. A not-so-new-reason is that designers have always boosted their men’s catwalk with a few womenswear. This is a constant source of distress for Menswear Editors that struggle to be seen as an independent player.
It doesn’t help that menswear season happens midst couture calendar. Givenchy, for example, used their menswear show to give a preview of their couture collection. Vetements, on the other, is taking advantage of the platform to present their full Womenswear/Menswear collection. The move is getting more adopters by the day, Proenza Schouler just announced it will be leaving NYFW to show in Paris next season.
The most decisive reason to the new found love for Men’s Fashion Weeks, however, is the end of gender barrier. That’s why a lot of designers not only include women’s in their men’s presentation, but they’ve been showing men’s in the traditional fashion weeks. It’s just not as important as before if an item was designed thinking of a specific gender. Women are borrowing/stealing/never returning more and more items from the guys’ closet. Thanks to label’s like Gosha Rubchinskiy and Vetements, cheeky logos took over the world, and it all started as a menswear trend.
Who doesn’t want a LV x Supreme scarf or a Bernie Sander’s inspired Balenciaga jacket?
And now you’re thinking: good for the boys, right? Their finally getting some attention. Well, it’s a good thing and also a bad thing. Because the rise of mens’ shows also mean their fall. The same street style nonsense that Suzy Menkes was complaining years ago has also taken over Pitti Uomo, London Men’s Collection, etc. The attention is not doing wonders for the prices either. Still more ‘customer friendly’ than the womens, menswear is suffering with a rise on prices and limited edition pieces destined to be ‘sold out’ in mere minutes.
Apparently, it’s not as easy to be a boy as we thought. The salaries are still higher though… #NoWageGap